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Home Bows Bowfishing New and Improved Bowfishing Platform
New and Improved Bowfishing Platform PDF Print E-mail
Written by Kathleen Kalina   
Thursday, 04 June 2009 20:19
Last year, I wrote the article “How to renovate a bowfishing boat.” Now I am at it again, but instead I am improving the bowfishing platform.  One of the problems that arises in seeing non-spawning rough fish is that they are deeper in the water and tend to spook easily.  Being able to see them further ahead of the boat is a definite advantage.  Some people have elaborate and expensive welded platforms on pretty wide jon boats.  Since I have a 16ft semi-V aluminum Lund boat, I thought  for a long time about increasing the height and yet not compromising the tippy aspect of flotation.  I bought two small 4ft scaffolds for $40 each and mounted them on 2x6 boards that were screwed to the original platform.


Two Scaffolds are bolted to 2x6 attached to deck.  Boat seats on the top step makes it easier for us older bowfishers to balance without falling out of the boat.  I cut the top of the scaffold with an angle grinder so that the seats could swivel freely.

The back 2x6 had to have a spacer to match the height of the deck. The screws coming through the gunnel into wood keeps it secure.   When driving, the entire platform should be winched tight to boat so the wind cannot pull it loose.

The scaffold originally had wheels which I removed and drilled holes for a locking clip in phalange. The phalange is bolted to a 2x6 that is screwed to the deck.  I can remove the entire platform for duck hunting in fall.

The back end of the two scaffolds is bolted to the another 2x6.

Each step must have a U bolt to hold it in place.  A wing nut is used in case the steps must be adjusted.

The two scaffolds are placed side by side with an opening for each shooter. The trick is to not make the width go outside the deck and make the whole thing tippy. It is a tight squeeze.


After all the steps are U-bolted down, then the first seat is mounted to the top step. Camo tape is put over the scaffold cut ends because they are sharp and it also wouldn’t be good to get water in there.

The second seat is bolted down.  The top of rails needs padded foam for protection.  Foam pipe insulation is real easy to slip over the pipes and then adhered with camo tape.

The padded pipe insulation makes a safer bumper for anyone who falls against it.

The camo tape should cover the orange scaffold metal completely.  A PVC pipe in both corners can hold extra arrows.

View of new platform.  Needs camo tape next.

A board across bench seats makes for a step to climb up on platform.

Checking that the seats are placed slightly back from center will keep from creating a tippy lever action. The seats should be tried out before anything is bolted to make sure there is room for swinging the seats.

The platform should be finished with camo tape and an extra winch strap for stabilizing it while trailering, since the wind could work loose the screws.